This was the day we were to visit the Taj and there was some degree of underlying excitement among the group. We were up early for a departure at 9 a.m. after checking out from the hotel. We boarded the bus with just enough luggage for our one night away from Delhi. The remainder of the luggage staying at Le Meridien until we returned on Sunday evening. Our trip out of the city was reasonably uneventful except for a stoppage to pay a ‘Road Tax’ at a nondescript small booth on the outskirts. After paying whatever toll we owed, a young many with a handkerchief over his face came up to the booth and took all the money away. For all the world it looked like a ‘shake down’ but I am sure that it was not as it also happened in reverse on the way back.
On the way out of the city we passed many of the new suburb developments where many huge apartment complexes are unfinished due to the developers running out of money. The new developments are served by commuter rail lines. We must have seen thousands of empty apartments awaiting completion. This is such a shame as completion would go a long way to solving the housing crisis in the city.
Further out we passed brickworks where large areas of clay were being excavated and chimneys which were presumably the kilns in which the bricks were baked belched smoke. Long piles of finished bricks were stacked nearby. Further still farmland, often tended by women in brightly colored saris, with animals and small buildings were the landscape. We stopped briefly for a bathroom break and then proceeded onwards to Agra. As we approached it was possible to see the white dome of the Taj, far in the distance.
Our first stop was at the Oberoi Hotel, a very exclusive hotel with rates of $1,000 per night to which Hemant had managed, through a friend, to obtains us access to have lunch. The hotel is magnificent and has a fantastic view of the Taj Mahal through the lobby. Our lunch was in the restaurant in the lower level and it was a wonderful meal. There was a choice of an extensive buffet or an a la carte menu. MAC and I chose from the a la carte and I had their signature chicken curry and MAC a couple of appetizers which proved to be of more than ample size!! We finished off by sampling some desserts.
After lunch it was off to the Taj, itself. We boarded golf buggy’s for the 5-10 minute ride to the entrance and after Hemant had obtained the tickets we met our guide for today and tomorrow. Pankaj Bajtnagar. This man is a simply superb guide in every respect and I will write more about him later.
He led us through the East Gate of the complex and after we had entered, there it was! It is extremely difficult to put into words what a stunning sight the Taj Mahal (pronounced by Pankaj as ‘Taj Mel’) lands on the eye. When Mumtaz, the Queen died giving birth to her 14th child, she asked the King to build something in her memory which would be the most lastingly beautiful thing on earth. It is safe to say that he carried out her last wish to the absolute letter.
The gleaming white marble of the dome and four minarets sear themselves into the retina and wherever you are in the complex, it is hard to take your eyes off the edifice. It seems to draw your attention however much you try to turn away. Perhaps it is the gleaming whiteness of it, the perfect symmetry or just the fact that it all seems to fit together so perfectly.
We walked towards the Taj and paused to take photos at what has come to be know as Diana’s seat where a famous photo of the late Princess of Wales was taken. It is on a raised platform about halfway from the gate to the tomb.
From here we walked to the steps of the edifice where we had to don cloth shoes coverings before climbing then steps to the entrance to the chamber where the replicas of the two tombs are located. Some years ago, the actual tombs were re-located to a crypt below the main floor of the mausoleum. In then center, in the center is the tomb of Mumtaz and as your enter, to the left is the tomb of the King, her husband, and the builder of the Taj. The whole chamber is of carved white marble as are the replica tombs. We were soon outside in the bright sunlight. It was, to some extent a transformative experience. Not withstanding its category as a Wonder of the World, I found that it was more impressive visually and emotionally than I had expected. There is something ethereal about it which defies words.
We circled the building and took photos from every angle. From behind the Taj we could make out then structure of Agra Fort where the poor husband of Mumtaz was imprisoned by his son for 8 years in order to forestall him building a ‘Black Taj’ for his own mausoleum. After 8 years in prison, the King died and his son relented and allowed him to be buried next to his wife in the Taj Mahal. At the back of the Taj is a river across from which are gardens which also give a great view of the building.
To the left of the Taj, there is a mosque. We entered the mosque and a helpful worshipper showed us where to get the best views of the Taj through the arches off the mosque. Then we walked through the gardens to the side of the Taj for more great views of the Taj in the setting sun. As we left the courtyard which leads up to the Taj, there was a strange sense of loss at leaving such an inspiring place. Not something I have experienced before.
The whole history of the Taj and the names of those involved I will leave for another post as I will have to research the facts. Our guide Pankaj is written up in Lonely Planet and is the No1 guide on TripAdvisor. He has certainly earned that status as his knowledge his delivery and his demeanor are excellent and his presence and commentary enhanced our visit enormously.
We awaited the golf carts which then took us back to the Oberoi Hotel where we were allowed a pit stop. We also met another Pankaj who was a friend of Hemant and Darshana from Chicago. He was here within his wife for their anniversary and Bhadon booked a room with a front row view of the Taj and a bath tub full of rose petals. He was also offered a private chef to cook his dinner in his room.
We left the Oberon and drove to the ITC Hotel. The traffic was pretty bad but as we approached the hotel, the urgent siren of an ambulance was heard behind us. We pilled into the hotel and in the ambulance was Marc who had been for an X-ray and MRI on his injured ankle that afternoon, missing, sadly the full tour of the Taj but he did get a quick glimpse of it before being taken off to the clinic. Despite the examination, the clinic was unable to find the cause of his acute discomfort and he was wheeled into the hotel on a wheelchair.
After a quick was and brunch up, we went down to the basement Indian restaurant for dinner which was Paneer Tikka and some excellent dahl. Then,;it was off to bed after a lifetime memorable day.
On the way out of the city we passed many of the new suburb developments where many huge apartment complexes are unfinished due to the developers running out of money. The new developments are served by commuter rail lines. We must have seen thousands of empty apartments awaiting completion. This is such a shame as completion would go a long way to solving the housing crisis in the city.
Further out we passed brickworks where large areas of clay were being excavated and chimneys which were presumably the kilns in which the bricks were baked belched smoke. Long piles of finished bricks were stacked nearby. Further still farmland, often tended by women in brightly colored saris, with animals and small buildings were the landscape. We stopped briefly for a bathroom break and then proceeded onwards to Agra. As we approached it was possible to see the white dome of the Taj, far in the distance.
Our first stop was at the Oberoi Hotel, a very exclusive hotel with rates of $1,000 per night to which Hemant had managed, through a friend, to obtains us access to have lunch. The hotel is magnificent and has a fantastic view of the Taj Mahal through the lobby. Our lunch was in the restaurant in the lower level and it was a wonderful meal. There was a choice of an extensive buffet or an a la carte menu. MAC and I chose from the a la carte and I had their signature chicken curry and MAC a couple of appetizers which proved to be of more than ample size!! We finished off by sampling some desserts.
After lunch it was off to the Taj, itself. We boarded golf buggy’s for the 5-10 minute ride to the entrance and after Hemant had obtained the tickets we met our guide for today and tomorrow. Pankaj Bajtnagar. This man is a simply superb guide in every respect and I will write more about him later.
He led us through the East Gate of the complex and after we had entered, there it was! It is extremely difficult to put into words what a stunning sight the Taj Mahal (pronounced by Pankaj as ‘Taj Mel’) lands on the eye. When Mumtaz, the Queen died giving birth to her 14th child, she asked the King to build something in her memory which would be the most lastingly beautiful thing on earth. It is safe to say that he carried out her last wish to the absolute letter.
The gleaming white marble of the dome and four minarets sear themselves into the retina and wherever you are in the complex, it is hard to take your eyes off the edifice. It seems to draw your attention however much you try to turn away. Perhaps it is the gleaming whiteness of it, the perfect symmetry or just the fact that it all seems to fit together so perfectly.
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| The Taj and the group in their commemorative t-shirts. |
We walked towards the Taj and paused to take photos at what has come to be know as Diana’s seat where a famous photo of the late Princess of Wales was taken. It is on a raised platform about halfway from the gate to the tomb.
From here we walked to the steps of the edifice where we had to don cloth shoes coverings before climbing then steps to the entrance to the chamber where the replicas of the two tombs are located. Some years ago, the actual tombs were re-located to a crypt below the main floor of the mausoleum. In then center, in the center is the tomb of Mumtaz and as your enter, to the left is the tomb of the King, her husband, and the builder of the Taj. The whole chamber is of carved white marble as are the replica tombs. We were soon outside in the bright sunlight. It was, to some extent a transformative experience. Not withstanding its category as a Wonder of the World, I found that it was more impressive visually and emotionally than I had expected. There is something ethereal about it which defies words.
We circled the building and took photos from every angle. From behind the Taj we could make out then structure of Agra Fort where the poor husband of Mumtaz was imprisoned by his son for 8 years in order to forestall him building a ‘Black Taj’ for his own mausoleum. After 8 years in prison, the King died and his son relented and allowed him to be buried next to his wife in the Taj Mahal. At the back of the Taj is a river across from which are gardens which also give a great view of the building.
To the left of the Taj, there is a mosque. We entered the mosque and a helpful worshipper showed us where to get the best views of the Taj through the arches off the mosque. Then we walked through the gardens to the side of the Taj for more great views of the Taj in the setting sun. As we left the courtyard which leads up to the Taj, there was a strange sense of loss at leaving such an inspiring place. Not something I have experienced before.
The whole history of the Taj and the names of those involved I will leave for another post as I will have to research the facts. Our guide Pankaj is written up in Lonely Planet and is the No1 guide on TripAdvisor. He has certainly earned that status as his knowledge his delivery and his demeanor are excellent and his presence and commentary enhanced our visit enormously.
We awaited the golf carts which then took us back to the Oberoi Hotel where we were allowed a pit stop. We also met another Pankaj who was a friend of Hemant and Darshana from Chicago. He was here within his wife for their anniversary and Bhadon booked a room with a front row view of the Taj and a bath tub full of rose petals. He was also offered a private chef to cook his dinner in his room.
We left the Oberon and drove to the ITC Hotel. The traffic was pretty bad but as we approached the hotel, the urgent siren of an ambulance was heard behind us. We pilled into the hotel and in the ambulance was Marc who had been for an X-ray and MRI on his injured ankle that afternoon, missing, sadly the full tour of the Taj but he did get a quick glimpse of it before being taken off to the clinic. Despite the examination, the clinic was unable to find the cause of his acute discomfort and he was wheeled into the hotel on a wheelchair.
After a quick was and brunch up, we went down to the basement Indian restaurant for dinner which was Paneer Tikka and some excellent dahl. Then,;it was off to bed after a lifetime memorable day.
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