Thursday, January 31, 2019

The journey begins.....

The trip started as usual with MAC pulling a nearly all-nighter at Big Apple Greeter and not coming home until 11 p.m. Even so we managed to get up around 7 a.m. and finish packing, clear up some of the mess and feed the cats who circled warily, knowing something was going on. They certainly know that suitcases mean that we will be away for a while but they are well cared for by our excellent cat carers so have nothing to worry about.

At 9.30 a.m. sharp our Carmel Car Service car arrived and we took our bags down (MAC a little tardy) and set off for the airport. Even though there had been dire warnings about the oncoming ‘polar vortex’, the roads were clear and traffic light. The driver told us that he was from Hyderabad in India and was interested to know of our upcoming trip. We made good progress to Newark Liberty International Terminal B and were soon checked in for our flight. We made our way to the Virgin Atlantic Lounge where we were served brunch (no buffet here, waitress service!!). We remained comfortably there until about 12.15 when we proceeded to the gate for a very smooth boarding process. Our seats (we had treated ourself to Business Class) were in the front of the area and we soon settled into very comfortable seats. To our surprise, we were also furnished with pajamas!! That was a first.

The flight took off right on time and was uneventful. Service and food were very good and with the flat-bed seats, we were able to get quite a good night’s sleep. The entertainment system was a little wonky but as this was a night flight it really didn’t matter and the buttons adjusting the seats needed some manipulation but on the whole I would rate this as an excellent, comfortable and restful flight.

Winds being favorable, we arrived at Mumbai at about 1.30 p.m. which was an hour early. Disembarkation was easy. The immigration process was rather strange and we were unsure of exactly what to do as our flight to Colombo was a different airline and thus we were in transit but not entering India on our visas. My immigration officer was very genial and I passed through quite quickly and smoothly. MAC’s lady immigration officer made a bit of a meal of her entry and there seemed to be some doubt as to whether we even needed to go through the process at all. Anyway, we picked our bags up quickly and decide to exchange some money. We used some of our dollars to get some Indian and Sri Lankan Rupees. We exchanged $500 in Indian and $100 in Sri Lankan. I suspect that the rate we got was rather more advantageous to the changer than to us. It was INR 67  to US$1 where the published rate is INR 70 = US$1, so I guess their margin was INR 1,500. We are going to have a pool with the group when we get to New Delhi with an initial ‘ante’ of INR 15,000 which Darshana will hold for those incidental expenses such as temple entry, tips, etc.

We had quite a long wait for our flight with Sri Lankan Airlines to Colombo which was at 8.30 p.m. There is a Business Class waiting area where we could make ourselves reasonably comfortable during this layover. We checked in using their automatic kiosk but we could not check our bags or access the lounge until 3-4 hours before the flight time. 

Eventually we checked in and although the check in was handled by a trainee and her mentor, it seemed to go OK but, maybe that is where our later trouble started. We proceeded through security and went to the very fancy lounge that we had access to. The lounge was sumptuously decorated with marble or similar carved screens dividing up the areas. The food was excellent with an Indian buffet of all sorts of delights. For future

Moving on from there, we moved to the gate and soon boarded the Sri Lankan Airlines Airbus. We were greeted on boarding by a delightful sari-clad flight attendant who welcomed us with hands in prayer position and the word “Ayubowan” which means in Singhalese “May you have a long life”. We took off and were served another wonderful meal in which I had a mutton curry which was excellent. Every now and again our lovely flight attendant made sure we were completely comfortable. It was a sign that tiredness was setting in that MAC made a complete mess of filling out her arrival form!!!

On landing in Colombo, the four of us seated in Business Class had our own bus to the terminal where we found quite a long line at immigration. We picked the wrong (slowest) line and eventually moved to a quicker one and passed through this formality.

So, no good journey goes unpunished. To cut a long story short, when we got to baggage claim, we found that my green bag was missing but another, very much like it was swirling, unclaimed around the carousel. It seemed obvious that someone had taken my bag in mistake for theirs. After the usual formalities, not helped by my mislaying the baggage claim slip, we left the airport bag-less and met our contacts from Red Dot Travel outside the terminal. They seemed ever-optimistic that the bag would turn up and our driver Mendes, drove us the 10 or 11 Kms to the Jetwing Beach Hotel at Negombo where we checked in, had a fast shower and went to sleep. It had been a long day!!!

So, the good news, the person (a Brit!!!!), who had grabbed what he thought was his wife’s bag but was, in fact, mine, returned it to the airport. We were notified of this at 3.45 a.m.by phone and that the bag would be here at the hotel at 8 a.m. in the morning. Great relief, back to sleep again. How grateful were we for the pajamas we had been given on our Air India flight which served us well for this night.


We live to fight another day and the Red Dot schedule will go ahead as planned with a trip to Dambulla this morning.

Tuesday, January 29, 2019

Mohandas K. Gandhi ... extracts from a recent article from the New York Times





The last steps, set in concrete, taken by Mohandas K. Gandhi before his assassination in 
1948. They are at the Gandhi Museum in New Delhi.


The article in the New York Times relates that Gandhi's reputation, mostly assumed to be spotless and admirable has been losing its luster in India. Here are some extracts from the article.


"Seventy years after his assassination, Gandhi’s global influence is still enormous and his reputation as a force for good remains firmly intact.
Like few others in history, he harnessed the moral firepower of nonviolent resistance, helping wrest India away from the British Empire. His example of what could be achieved with peaceful protest has inspired countless others, across different cultures and different times, from Martin Luther King Jr. to the so-called tank man in Tiananmen Square.

Well into the 21st century, Gandhi’s halo is still bright in most of the world. 
But in contemporary India, Gandhi is no longer quite so awe-inspiring, or even relevant.
As time goes on, he seems to be falling out of sync with the prevailing trends in Indian politics, although politicians still regularly exploit nostalgia for him.
“I am afraid Gandhi has become marginal,” said Pratap B. Mehta, a political scientist who is the vice chancellor of Ashoka University and former president of the Center for Policy Research in New Delhi. “In modern India, the two dominant forces hate him.” Among Hindu nationalists, part of the demographic base that powers India’s governing Bharatiya Janata Party, Gandhi is seen as weak, Mr. Mehta said. Hindu supremacists are still angry at him for expressing so much sympathy for the country’s Muslim minority and for allowing Pakistan to split off from India.Some Hindu nationalists have even built statues of Gandhi’s killer, Nathuram Godse, who was once a member of a Hindu nationalist group that Prime Minister Narendra Modi and many of his political allies also have belonged to. Mr. Godse is India’s real hero, some nationalists say. 

Gandhi is also out of favor with the Dalits, a class of Indians bound at the bottom of India’s Hindu society for centuries, but who now, with an estimated population of more than 200 million, wield significant political clout.
Gandhi was passionate about the poor, including the Dalits, railing against exploitation and living almost like a monk, wearing a simple white loin cloth and famously eating little. After Mr. Obama picked Gandhi as his ideal dinner companion, he joked: “It would probably be a really small meal.”
And in an exhibit at the Gandhi Smriti memorial (“Smriti” is a Hindi word that means something like “in memory of”), you can peer into his ground floor room and see what are labeled his “Worldly Remains”: his glasses, a spoon, a pocket watch and a pumice stone to scrub his body.
With such a commitment to the poor, it might seem curious that Gandhi was so comfortable here at a lavish private home built in 1928 for G.D. Birla, one of India’s early industrialists, who made a fortune from jute — and from others’ sweat.

Gandhi is like Churchill, Napoleon, Mao, Lincoln, any great figure,” Mr. Guha said. “His brand goes up and down. His legacy will be debated endlessly"

The article goes on to discuss details of Gandhi's life which have been called racist and even sexist but there is still great respect for him among many Indians..



The Republic Day parade in New Delhi on Saturday. The theme of this year’s event was Gandhi.
CreditAltaf Hussain/Reuters


Image

It is getting close.......

We are now on the last lap before we take off on Wednesday 30th January. There are flurries of e-mails between the group regarding all sorts of issues such as whether or not to buy liquor at the Delhi Duty Free shop on the way in and how fast we can drink it before it becomes an encumbrance in our luggage. Much logistical discussion concerns the weight and size of baggage both carry on and checked. With multiple flights and the Indian regulations differing from those in the US we will need to pack smartly. Camera gear, laptops and other paraphernalia tend to weigh quite heavy and this may prove problematical for carry on.

However, I am sure that we will all manage somehow even if the Indian airlines benefit from some extra baggage fees.

We have found that we are just missing Hemant and Darshana who are flying out of Newark after us and we will have left Mumbai for Colombo just before they land there. We will, of course, meet up in Delhi as arranged on February 6th.

Today I started taking my anti-malaria tablets which I will have to take every day and for a couple of days after we return.

We found some fairly recent and some older photos of the Class of 1975


Hemant, back in the day!!
Marc, as he was!!

This is the Class of '75 Reunion photograph which was taken in 2015 at the 40th reunion. Of our traveling companions Back row: left John Schiller, back row center, Marc Allinson, back row right Steve Rothman. Front row: third from left Hemant Sanghvi, then Linda Pringle and MAC, third from right. In the front pointing is Fumio Mitani who we will miss greatly on the trip but will be with us in spirit.

We have several February birthdays during the trip as well as Valentine's Day. We have Marc's birthday on 11th February, Darshana's on 15th. and Steve's on 21st. This is going to be a marathon not a sprint!!!

As the hours tick down until we take off there is a flurry of e-mails, mostly on the subject of money, how to obtain it, how to divide it up and how to spend it. Hemant and Darshana show their amazing patience and courtesy in helping those with inquiries. I have no idea how we would have put this together without them.

24 hours before departure I checked in with the Air India website which is a bit wobbly and every now and again seems to have a 'server error' and lose all the information you have carefully entered into their system!! Never mind, we seem to be in their system and I did get a check-in confirmation although no boarding passes.

The weather forecast for departure day and the rest of the week is awful and it will be bitterly cold with a 'Polar Vortex' with temperatures in the mid-west as low as -50 deg F (-45 deg C). In NYC the 'real feel' temperature may be below -20 deg F (-29 deg C). There is a travel advisory in the NYC area so we have re-scheduled our car to Newark Liberty Airport a bit earlier.

Otherwise my packing is going well but MAC seems to want to lay out all her options on our bed before making a selection at the last moment! The bedroom resembles a war zone.

I am sure that by 9.30 a.m. tomorrow, Wednesday 30th. all will be in order😲😣😣😣😣











































Saturday, January 26, 2019

Some more Mumbai recommendations

Our neighbor, Narendra who is a frequent visitor to India and a Mumbai 'maven' gave us some recommendations for visiting Mumbai. Although we are extremely happy to be going with Darshana's arrangements (she is a Mumbaian (?) by upbringing), which I am sure will be top notch, I am including these here so that if, in future we go back to Mumbai (not by any means out of the question), or any of our friends decided to visit, the recommendations are available in a place that we can reasonably easily find them.

https://www.ncpamumbai.com/







http://www.kalaghodaassociation.com/about-kga.html.

Photography takes a leaps into the 21st Century

This is the way photography is carried out in modern times. Get with it.

GoPro with chest harness!!!

Friday, January 25, 2019

Some changes to our 'Traveling Companions'

One of the characters, you may recall was Moomin. She is from Finland and often experiences 'prickly heat' in hot climates. This manifests itself as nasty rash. So she has decided to remain in cold wintry New York.

The heat-sensitive Moomin regrets to say she cannot come to India but one of her smaller sisters might make it.



Fortunately for us, I ran into this character on the street today who claims Indian heritage and will be better suited to the climate and culture of the trip. He/she, (we have not sexed it yet) is as yet unnamed. Suggestions are welcome.

The new recruit



Thursday, January 24, 2019

Our 'other' traveling companions

So, on every trip we have some traveling companions who accompany us. They stay in the hotel room when they are not snug in the baggage. They act as an 'acid test' for the hotel staff. If, when we return each day, the guys have been neatly arranged on the bed and report that the room staff have been considerate and treated them well. this may be reflected in the tip left on departure. We have encountered, in some European countries which shall be nameless, the guys being strewn on the floor or roughly dumped in a corner. They take a dim view of this. So do we.

Well, for this trip, here is the line-up some or all of which may come with us depending upon space in the baggage.


From the left to the right, we have:

  • Lamby - who came, as you might expect, from New Zealand and is hoping that he will not end up in a Vindaloo curry
  • The big guy is Moomin who comes from Finland 
  • In Moomin's lap is Curious George who comes everywhere and is unerringly curious and will bend MAC's ear with questions the whole time.
  • Hmmmm! next to them is Ratly. He comes from Bavaria and claims royal blood as he has a crown on his head. He has awful attitude and constantly complains about the accommodation, locality and just about everything. However, his motto is, "If I don't go, youse don't go".
  • Next to Ratly is Homer. He is the oldest member of the group. He came from the Housing Works shop, about 25+ years ago and is a regular traveler (he has even been to Greece to seek the home of his namesake.)
  • The last, but not least, is Tigger, who else to come to India to seek his forebears? 
They are all keen to go and we will see if they all make the 'cut'.

Watch this space..........

Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Sri Lanka....

Our first stop will be Sri Lanka and this is the final brief summary from our tour operator of the program for that short visit.

31/01/19 : Private A/C Vehicle with an English Speaking Chauffeur Guide for arrival and tour 31/01/19 : Hotel ; Jetwing Beach, Negombo, 
01/02/19 : Dambulla Cave Temple (En-route) 
01/02/19 : Hotel: Kalundewa Retreat, Dambulla, Nil Manel 
02/02/19 : Morning: Polonnaruwa by Bike - Afternoon Minneriya National Park
03/02/19 : Morning : Sigiriya Rock Fortress & Millenium Elephant Foundation
03/02/19 : Hotel: Santani Wellness Resort and Spa, Kandy, 
04/02/19 : Kandy: Royal Botanical Gardens  & Visit to the Temple Of The Tooth Relic 
05/02/19 : Hotel: Galle Face Hotel, Colombo, 
05/02/19 : Dinner at Ministry of Crab at 1930Hrs 
06/02/19 : Departure Transfer.

It is rather a busy schedule and will only afford us a glimpse of the country but we thought that being so close we ought to garb the chance of seeing something of this part of the world. Who knows? maybe we will fall in love with it and come back one day. it will, give us the chance to see just some of the differences between Sri Lanka and India although we are told that Southern India and Sri Lanka have close similarities. Below are some of the things we shall see and I expect there will be many more photographs to come.

Dambulla Cave Temple



Some possible sightings on the Minneriya National Park Safari


The Royal Botanical Gardens at Kandy
Looking forward to this visit perhaps as an appetizer to our 'India main course'!! (no disrespect to Sri Lanka)

Tuesday, January 22, 2019

Packing for the trip...........

More very useful advice from Darshana on what to pack for the trip:

  • Medical: - A few Band-Aid strips,  diarrhea medicine (Imodium is available in India), Probiotics if you need the extra help to digest spicy foods.  Your malaria medicine, any prescription medicine you take, antibiotics (such as Ampicillin, Augmentin, Norflox, Ciplox are available in India over the counter), Insect/mosquito repellent (Odomos in India works well on mosquitos there), Sunscreen, Anti-itch cream, tablets of Pepto Bismol, Tylenol, Ibuprofen Benadryl for allergies or other cold medication, Melatonin to get over your jetlag (Hemant has bought it from Costco and so we have plenty for everyone!).   Whatever you bring, please opt for smaller quantities and travel size bottles.   Also, we can pool in a few of these if one is running short.

·         Toiletries:  Just carry what you usually do for travel.  We are staying at 5 star hotels and they will supply what we need and more!  Just keep a small roll of Toilet paper if we need to use public rest rooms while on the road.  Tissues, Hand Sanitizer (travel sizes) is a must.

·         Luggage:   Try to have 1 small cabin or collapsible duffel bag for each person especially if we want to leave some luggage back in Jaipur when we go to Jaisalmer and return to Jaipur.   Make sure the bags are lockable as we will have to leave them on the coach when we go sightseeing while travelling between cities.   A back-pack works well.  Darshana usually carries a larger handbag (like a tote) where the regular purse, iPad etc. fits in for the plane rides and later they can be used separate when traveling in cities.  These small collapsible bags or even travel pouches help carry the passports and cash when we have to leave the coach for sightseeing stops and the luggage is in the coach, having checked out of the hotels.  You can lock your computers and iPads in the larger bags.  At the better hotels it is fine to use the room-safe provided for any extra cash or even the passport.  Keep a few ziplock bags of different sizes. Don’t forget the chargers and adaptors.

·         Clothes, consider that you will only be able to get laundry done in Jaipur. Bring light pants or capris made of performance material, cotton or linen, one pair of jeans,  cotton and linen shirts preferred, non-iron material for evening, dresses or long skirts for the women, a cotton shawl for day time and temple visits and one warmer shawl (could buy it in Delhi) for evening for the women, Blazer for the men. A good shirt for the grand dinners (smart casual will do). Remember no one can resist clothes shopping in India and so less is better, you will be able to pick up in- expensive things on the way. Don’t forget your swim suits, sun glasses, a hat, etc.

·         Footwear, at least one pair of flip flop like slippers or sandals for the beach and to wear within the hotels, one comfortable pair of shoes that you can slip on and off easily, and sneakers for any walks. We will need a pair of decent shoes for the grand dinners (the comfy shoes may do)

Here are a few websites to browse through and also see the A-Z list of India essentials attached to this email

Preparations and pre-trip observations....

There have been some changes made to the itinerary, hotels and activities but I will no go into them here as they will only complicate matters. We can see where we are going and what we are doing day by day.

Darshana has offered us lots of alternatives for activities and food. She would like input on our preferences but as I really do not know what each alternative actually offers this is difficult. All I would like is as immersive experience as possible. Street food is fine with me. I would like to see as much of the 'real India' as possible 'warts and all'. It would be a shame to go all that way and then hide behind the walls of 'western' hotels and restaurants. 

Having been to India before, albeit a long time ago, I am somewhat aware of what to expect and the fact that living conditions may be different, to coin a phrase 'from the home life of our dear Queen' and that there may be poverty on view and different cultural norms. This is exactly what I want to absorb and make my own assessments of the country absent judgments based on what I am or have been used to. There are many issues which India wrestles with in the form of religious and cultural mores and I would like to try to understand some of them, how they arose and if they are ascendant or if western influence is starting to erode them either for good or bad.

A recent visit to a Hindu temple in New Jersey and attending  the short ceremony there sparked an interest in this faith which seems to have many branches and traditions.



The remarkable BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Hindu Temple at Windsor, New Jersey
I am sure that this will just be a foretaste of the amazing temples we will see in India.

This will be a highlight....February 8th.

Hemant has managed to get us a tour of the Presidential Residence in New Delhi and as you will see from the message below, this is a rare and our timing is fortuitous.

"We did get ourselves finally confirmed for a Feb. 8, 9:30 am public tour of the Presidential Residence in New Delhi.  As Wiki says --- in terms of area, “Rashtrapati Bhavan” is the largest residence of any head of state in the world.  Indian presidents are apolitical, nominated by the Indian parliament to a ceremonial 5-year non-executive term.   (Life can be great for the couple in a 340-room modest home!)

We will need to be there at 9:00 am.  As per their instructions below – no Backpack, Camera, Video Camera and Mobile Phone inside the complex.  Passports are required along with the printout.  Also, our timing is impeccable.  They open up their Mughal Gardens only once a year to the public for about a month.  This year it is Feb. 6 thru Mar. 10 – thank our lucky stars but sadly no cameras!

The Presidential Residence

Here are some links which explain the place and some context. 

Additional reading:
History (Viceroy’s House):           https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rashtrapati_Bhavan
What will we see:                            https://rb.nic.in/rbvisit/visit_plan.aspx   (“Explore” tab, Circuit 1 which includes Main Building, Forecourt, Reception, Banquet Hall, Upper Loggia, Lutyens Grand Stairs, etc.)
Current President:                          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/President_of_India