We awoke to the news that our visit to the President’s House (called by Indians, Rashtrapati Bhavan) had been postponed from 9.30 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. Thus we were able to breakfast in a more leisurely way. I had a dosa and another small roll of filo pastry with a delicious filling and, of course, coffee. After breakfast we boarded the bus to go to the Qutub Minar. This is the location of a huge Islamic monument and the ruins of both Hindu and Muslim temples. We met our guide who described the history and provenance of the site. As I was not able to recal all this information, I have to rely on Wikipedia again to give me the details. Here they are, courtesy of Wikipedia:
Quote
“The Qutub Minar, also spelled as Qutab Minar, or Qutb Minar, is a minaret that forms part of the Qutab complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Mehrauli area of Delhi, India. Qutub Minar is a 73-metre (239.5 feet) tall tapering tower of five storeys, with a 14.3 metres (47 feet) base diameter, reducing to 2.7 metres (9 feet) at the top of the peak. It contains a spiral staircase of 379 steps. Its design is thought to have been based on the Minaret of Jam, in western Afghanistan.
Started by Qutub-ud-din Aibak / completed by his son-in-law Iltutmish
Qutb Minar is located in IndiaQutb Minar
Location of Qutub Minar in India
Qutab-Ud-Din-Aibak, founder of the Delhi Sultanate, started construction of the Qutub Minar's first storey around 1192. In 1220, Aibak's successor and son-in-law Shamsuddin Iltutmish completed a further three storeys. In 1369, a lightning strike destroyed the top storey. Firoz Shah Tughlaq replaced the damaged storey, and added one more. Sher Shah Suri also added an entrance to this tower while he was ruling and Humayun was in exile.
The Minar is surrounded by several historically significant monuments of the Qutab complex, including Quwat-ul-Islam Mosque was built at the same time as the Minar, and the much older Iron Pillar of Delhi. The nearby pillared Cupola known as "Smith's Folly" is a remnant of the tower's 19th century restoration, which included an ill-advised attempt to add some more stories.
Qutab Minar was established along with Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque around 1192 by Qutab-ud-din Aibak, first ruler of the Delhi Sultanate. The mosque complex is one of the earliest that survives in the Indian subcontinent. The minaret is named after Qutab-ud-din Aibak, or Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki, a Sufi saint.Its ground storey was built over the ruins of the Lal Kot, the citadel of Dhillika. Aibak's successor Iltutmish added three more storeys. The minar's topmost storey was damaged by lightning in 1369 and was rebuilt by Firuz Shah Tughlaq, who added another storey. In 1505, an earthquake damaged Qutub Minar; it was repaired by Sikander Lodi. On 1 September 1803, a major earthquake caused serious damage. Major Robert Smith of the British Indian Army renovated the tower in 1828 and installed a pillared cupola over the fifth story, thus creating a sixth. The cupola was taken down in 1848, under instructions from The Viscount Hardinge, then Governor General of India. It was reinstalled at ground level to the east of Qutab Minar, where it remains. It is known as "Smith's Folly".” Unquote
Sadly we were not allowed to go up to the top of the minaret and the reason for this was that, up until 1974, the general public was allowed access to the top of the minaret, via the internal staircase. On 4 December 1981, the staircase lighting failed. Between 300 and 430 visitors stampeded towards the exit, and 47 were killed in the crush and some were injured. Most of these were school children. Since then, the tower has been closed to the public. This was a pity as I am sure the views from the top would be quite spectacular.
Within the site is the Iron Pillar of Delhi about which Wikipedia says this:
Quote
“The Iron pillar of Delhi, also known as Ashoka Pillar, is 23 feet 8 inches high with 16 inches diameter structure, was constructed by a "King Chandra", probably Chandragupta I , and is currently standing in the Qutb complex at Mehrauli in Delhi, India. It is famous for the rust-resistant composition of the metals used in its construction. It is dedicated to Vishnu.
The pillar has attracted the attention of archaeologists and materials scientists because of its high resistance to corrosion and has been called a "testimony to the high level of skill achieved by the ancient Indian iron smiths in the extraction and processing of iron". The corrosion resistance results from an even layer of crystalline iron hydrogen phosphate hydrate forming on the high-phosphorus-content iron, which serves to protect it from the effects of the Delhi climate.
The pillar weighs over 6,000 kg (13,000 lb) and is thought to have been erected in what is now Udayagiri and reused by one of the Gupta monarchs in approximately 402 CE, though the precise date and location are a matter of dispute.
The iron pillar stands within the courtyard of Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
The height of the pillar, from the top of its capital to the bottom of its base, is 7.21 m (23 ft 8 in), 1.12 m (3 ft 8 in) of which is below ground. Its bell pattern capital is 1.07 m (3 ft 6 in) in height, and its bulb-shaped base is 0.71 m (2 ft 4 in) high. The base rests on a grid of iron bars soldered with lead into the upper layer of the dressed stone pavement. The pillar's lower diameter is 420 mm (17 in), and its upper diameter is 306 mm (12 in). It is estimated to weigh more than six tonnes (13,228 lb).” Unquote
Hindu legend has it that if you can encircle the pillar with your hands behind your back, your wishes will be granted but because this proved so popular, the monument is now fenced off and protected.
Not far from the Qutab Minar there is the basal of another Minar which was expected to be twice the height of the Qutab Minar and has a base which is twice the diameter of the first one. This Minar was never completed and stands today as a ruin and a testament to the hubris of its builder who wanted to outdo his predecessors.
Flying around the site are masses of pigeons and many green parrots or parakeets which screech loudly.
From the Qutab Minar, we drove to the President’s House (Rashtrapati Bhavan). The traffic was, as usual, very heavy. After having some difficulty finding the right entrance we eventually arranged and went through the entry formalities being told we could and then couldn’t bring certain items, such as cameras and cell phones into the property. We walked up the drive way and across the wide courtyard past the formal access steps which were lined with flowers. At the building entrance, our credentials were checked, a group photo was taken of us by security. Then we met our guide who started our tour of the house. The house was commissioned by King George V and Queen Mary of Great Britain during their visit to Delhi in 1911. At this time, the King designated that Delhi should be the capital of India and that a residence should be built for the Viceroy and then President. The building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir George Baker. Building commenced in 1913 and was completed in 1929. Here is what Wikipedia says about the house and gives a slightly fuller description than the guide, who was otherwise excellent in his commentary:
Quote
“The Rashtrapati Bhavan Presidential Residence" previously "Viceroy's House") is the official home of the president located at the Western end of Rajpath in New Delhi, India. Rashtrapati Bhavan may refer to only the 340-room main building that has the president's official residence, including reception halls, guest rooms and offices, also called the mansion; it may also refer to the entire 130-hectare (320 acre) Presidential Estate that additionally includes huge presidential gardens (Mughal Gardens), large open spaces, residences of bodyguards and staff, stables, other offices and utilities within its perimeter walls. In terms of area, it is the largest residence of any head of state in the world.
This decision to build a residence in New Delhi for the British Viceroy was taken after it was decided during the Delhi Durbar in December 1911 that the capital of India would be relocated from Calcutta to Delhi. When the plan for a new city, New Delhi, adjacent to end south of Old Delhi, was developed after the Delhi Durbar, the new palace for the Viceroy of India was given an enormous size and prominent position. About 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin the construction of Viceroy's House, as it was originally called, and adjacent Secretariat Building between 1911 and 1916 by relocating Raisina and Malcha villages that existed there and their 300 families under the Land & Acquisition Act.
The sloping approach from the east, which hides the lower part of the building, as Lutyens feared.
The British architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens, a major member of the city-planning process, was given the primary architectural responsibility. The completed Governor-General's palace turned out very similar to the original sketches which Lutyens sent Herbert Baker, from Simla, on 14 June 1912. Lutyens' design is grandly classical overall, with colors and details inspired by Indian architecture. Lutyens and Baker, who had been assigned to work on Viceroy's House and the Secretariats, began on friendly terms. Baker had been assigned to work on the two secretariat buildings which were in front of Viceroy's House. The original plan was to have Viceroy's House on the top of Raisina Hill, with the secretariats lower down. It was later decided to build it 400 yards back and put both buildings on top of the plateau. While Lutyens wanted Viceroy's House to be higher, he was forced to move it back from the intended position, which resulted in a dispute with Baker. After completion, Lutyens argued with Baker, because the view of the front of the building was obscured by the high angle of the road.
Lutyens campaigned for its fixing, but was not able to get it to be changed. Lutyens wanted to make a long inclined grade all the way to Viceroy's House with retaining walls on either side. While this would give a view of the house from further back, it would also cut through the square between the secretariat buildings. The committee with Lutyens and Baker established in January 1914 said the grade was to be no steeper than 1 in 25, though it eventually was changed to 1 in 22, a steeper gradient which made it more difficult to see the Viceroy's palace. While Lutyens knew about the gradient, and the possibility that the Viceroy's palace would be obscured by the road, it is thought that Lutyens did not fully realize how little the front of the house would be visible. In 1916 the Imperial Delhi committee dismissed Lutyens's proposal to alter the gradient. Lutyens thought Baker was more concerned with making money and pleasing the government, rather than making a good architectural design.
Lutyens traveled between India and England almost every year for twenty years and worked on the construction of Viceroy's House in both countries. Lutyens reduced the building from 13,000,000 cubic feet (370,000 m3) to 8,500,000 cubic feet (240,000 m3) because of the budget restrictions of Lord Hardinge. While Hardinge demanded that costs be reduced, he nevertheless wanted the house to retain a certain amount of ceremonial grandeur. (Note: our guide told us that the cost of the building was UK Pounds 839,000 which converted from 1929 to todays equivalent would be (as per the UK Office of National Statistics) UK Pounds 50,665,196 or at the present approximate ROE to the US dollar of $1.3 = UKP 1, would be US$ 65,864,755.
When Chakravarti Rajagopalachari assumed the office as the first Indian-born Governor General of India and became the occupant of this building he preferred to stay in a few rooms which is now the family wing of the President and converted the then Viceroy's apartments into the Guest Wing where visiting heads of state stay while in India.
On 26 ,864,755January 1950, when Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India and occupied this building, it was renamed as Rashtrapati Bhavan – the President's House.” Unquote
The guide noted that the banqueting hall held a dinner group of 200 but when President Barack Obama visited, the dinner party was for 1,000 people and had to be in a larger location. One of the quirks of the main banqueting hall is that the staff are consigned to absolute silence, instructions being conveyed to them during the meal by a series of colored lights blue, red and green, above the diners giving instructions when to serve and when to clear away dishes.
We also visited the artifacts room where there were wonderful carpets and tapestries on display.
We left the building and had a group photo taken at the foot of the steps.
Then we took the bus to the gardens and most of the party strolled around the beautiful gardens of which I had caught a glimpse out of a window during our tour. I sat out this walk with Marc as his heel and my knees were getting sore, so we sat in a tent at the entrance and awaited the groups’ return.
Leaving the President’s house we traveled to a counter service restaurant called Haldirams where we lunched on Chole, Gol Gappe (large balloon-like crepes which we filled with various curries) and a type of small ‘donut’ soaked in syrup.
Then it was on to a shopping mall where most of the group went off to purchase scarves and stoles made of pashmina. After they had spent a while in the shop we headed back to the hotel.
As I had had a rather good lunch, I decided to skip dinner which would be at 8.30 p.m. at a bar where they served snack foods and exotic drinks. MAC went off with the group and I stayed to complete the day’s post and to prepare clothes for the trip to Agra tomorrow.
Quote
“The Qutub Minar, also spelled as Qutab Minar, or Qutb Minar, is a minaret that forms part of the Qutab complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Mehrauli area of Delhi, India. Qutub Minar is a 73-metre (239.5 feet) tall tapering tower of five storeys, with a 14.3 metres (47 feet) base diameter, reducing to 2.7 metres (9 feet) at the top of the peak. It contains a spiral staircase of 379 steps. Its design is thought to have been based on the Minaret of Jam, in western Afghanistan.
Started by Qutub-ud-din Aibak / completed by his son-in-law Iltutmish
Qutb Minar is located in IndiaQutb Minar
Location of Qutub Minar in India
Qutab-Ud-Din-Aibak, founder of the Delhi Sultanate, started construction of the Qutub Minar's first storey around 1192. In 1220, Aibak's successor and son-in-law Shamsuddin Iltutmish completed a further three storeys. In 1369, a lightning strike destroyed the top storey. Firoz Shah Tughlaq replaced the damaged storey, and added one more. Sher Shah Suri also added an entrance to this tower while he was ruling and Humayun was in exile.
The Minar is surrounded by several historically significant monuments of the Qutab complex, including Quwat-ul-Islam Mosque was built at the same time as the Minar, and the much older Iron Pillar of Delhi. The nearby pillared Cupola known as "Smith's Folly" is a remnant of the tower's 19th century restoration, which included an ill-advised attempt to add some more stories.
Qutab Minar was established along with Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque around 1192 by Qutab-ud-din Aibak, first ruler of the Delhi Sultanate. The mosque complex is one of the earliest that survives in the Indian subcontinent. The minaret is named after Qutab-ud-din Aibak, or Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki, a Sufi saint.Its ground storey was built over the ruins of the Lal Kot, the citadel of Dhillika. Aibak's successor Iltutmish added three more storeys. The minar's topmost storey was damaged by lightning in 1369 and was rebuilt by Firuz Shah Tughlaq, who added another storey. In 1505, an earthquake damaged Qutub Minar; it was repaired by Sikander Lodi. On 1 September 1803, a major earthquake caused serious damage. Major Robert Smith of the British Indian Army renovated the tower in 1828 and installed a pillared cupola over the fifth story, thus creating a sixth. The cupola was taken down in 1848, under instructions from The Viscount Hardinge, then Governor General of India. It was reinstalled at ground level to the east of Qutab Minar, where it remains. It is known as "Smith's Folly".” Unquote
Sadly we were not allowed to go up to the top of the minaret and the reason for this was that, up until 1974, the general public was allowed access to the top of the minaret, via the internal staircase. On 4 December 1981, the staircase lighting failed. Between 300 and 430 visitors stampeded towards the exit, and 47 were killed in the crush and some were injured. Most of these were school children. Since then, the tower has been closed to the public. This was a pity as I am sure the views from the top would be quite spectacular.
Within the site is the Iron Pillar of Delhi about which Wikipedia says this:
Quote
“The Iron pillar of Delhi, also known as Ashoka Pillar, is 23 feet 8 inches high with 16 inches diameter structure, was constructed by a "King Chandra", probably Chandragupta I , and is currently standing in the Qutb complex at Mehrauli in Delhi, India. It is famous for the rust-resistant composition of the metals used in its construction. It is dedicated to Vishnu.
The pillar has attracted the attention of archaeologists and materials scientists because of its high resistance to corrosion and has been called a "testimony to the high level of skill achieved by the ancient Indian iron smiths in the extraction and processing of iron". The corrosion resistance results from an even layer of crystalline iron hydrogen phosphate hydrate forming on the high-phosphorus-content iron, which serves to protect it from the effects of the Delhi climate.
The pillar weighs over 6,000 kg (13,000 lb) and is thought to have been erected in what is now Udayagiri and reused by one of the Gupta monarchs in approximately 402 CE, though the precise date and location are a matter of dispute.
The iron pillar stands within the courtyard of Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
The height of the pillar, from the top of its capital to the bottom of its base, is 7.21 m (23 ft 8 in), 1.12 m (3 ft 8 in) of which is below ground. Its bell pattern capital is 1.07 m (3 ft 6 in) in height, and its bulb-shaped base is 0.71 m (2 ft 4 in) high. The base rests on a grid of iron bars soldered with lead into the upper layer of the dressed stone pavement. The pillar's lower diameter is 420 mm (17 in), and its upper diameter is 306 mm (12 in). It is estimated to weigh more than six tonnes (13,228 lb).” Unquote
Hindu legend has it that if you can encircle the pillar with your hands behind your back, your wishes will be granted but because this proved so popular, the monument is now fenced off and protected.
Not far from the Qutab Minar there is the basal of another Minar which was expected to be twice the height of the Qutab Minar and has a base which is twice the diameter of the first one. This Minar was never completed and stands today as a ruin and a testament to the hubris of its builder who wanted to outdo his predecessors.
Flying around the site are masses of pigeons and many green parrots or parakeets which screech loudly.
 |
| The Qutab Minar |
 |
| A squirrel and a couple of the parakeets which inhabit the site |
 |
| The Ashoka Pillar |
 |
| The base of the unfinished Minar which was to be twice the height of the first one. |
From the Qutab Minar, we drove to the President’s House (Rashtrapati Bhavan). The traffic was, as usual, very heavy. After having some difficulty finding the right entrance we eventually arranged and went through the entry formalities being told we could and then couldn’t bring certain items, such as cameras and cell phones into the property. We walked up the drive way and across the wide courtyard past the formal access steps which were lined with flowers. At the building entrance, our credentials were checked, a group photo was taken of us by security. Then we met our guide who started our tour of the house. The house was commissioned by King George V and Queen Mary of Great Britain during their visit to Delhi in 1911. At this time, the King designated that Delhi should be the capital of India and that a residence should be built for the Viceroy and then President. The building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir George Baker. Building commenced in 1913 and was completed in 1929. Here is what Wikipedia says about the house and gives a slightly fuller description than the guide, who was otherwise excellent in his commentary:
Quote
“The Rashtrapati Bhavan Presidential Residence" previously "Viceroy's House") is the official home of the president located at the Western end of Rajpath in New Delhi, India. Rashtrapati Bhavan may refer to only the 340-room main building that has the president's official residence, including reception halls, guest rooms and offices, also called the mansion; it may also refer to the entire 130-hectare (320 acre) Presidential Estate that additionally includes huge presidential gardens (Mughal Gardens), large open spaces, residences of bodyguards and staff, stables, other offices and utilities within its perimeter walls. In terms of area, it is the largest residence of any head of state in the world.
This decision to build a residence in New Delhi for the British Viceroy was taken after it was decided during the Delhi Durbar in December 1911 that the capital of India would be relocated from Calcutta to Delhi. When the plan for a new city, New Delhi, adjacent to end south of Old Delhi, was developed after the Delhi Durbar, the new palace for the Viceroy of India was given an enormous size and prominent position. About 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin the construction of Viceroy's House, as it was originally called, and adjacent Secretariat Building between 1911 and 1916 by relocating Raisina and Malcha villages that existed there and their 300 families under the Land & Acquisition Act.
The sloping approach from the east, which hides the lower part of the building, as Lutyens feared.
The British architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens, a major member of the city-planning process, was given the primary architectural responsibility. The completed Governor-General's palace turned out very similar to the original sketches which Lutyens sent Herbert Baker, from Simla, on 14 June 1912. Lutyens' design is grandly classical overall, with colors and details inspired by Indian architecture. Lutyens and Baker, who had been assigned to work on Viceroy's House and the Secretariats, began on friendly terms. Baker had been assigned to work on the two secretariat buildings which were in front of Viceroy's House. The original plan was to have Viceroy's House on the top of Raisina Hill, with the secretariats lower down. It was later decided to build it 400 yards back and put both buildings on top of the plateau. While Lutyens wanted Viceroy's House to be higher, he was forced to move it back from the intended position, which resulted in a dispute with Baker. After completion, Lutyens argued with Baker, because the view of the front of the building was obscured by the high angle of the road.
Lutyens campaigned for its fixing, but was not able to get it to be changed. Lutyens wanted to make a long inclined grade all the way to Viceroy's House with retaining walls on either side. While this would give a view of the house from further back, it would also cut through the square between the secretariat buildings. The committee with Lutyens and Baker established in January 1914 said the grade was to be no steeper than 1 in 25, though it eventually was changed to 1 in 22, a steeper gradient which made it more difficult to see the Viceroy's palace. While Lutyens knew about the gradient, and the possibility that the Viceroy's palace would be obscured by the road, it is thought that Lutyens did not fully realize how little the front of the house would be visible. In 1916 the Imperial Delhi committee dismissed Lutyens's proposal to alter the gradient. Lutyens thought Baker was more concerned with making money and pleasing the government, rather than making a good architectural design.
Lutyens traveled between India and England almost every year for twenty years and worked on the construction of Viceroy's House in both countries. Lutyens reduced the building from 13,000,000 cubic feet (370,000 m3) to 8,500,000 cubic feet (240,000 m3) because of the budget restrictions of Lord Hardinge. While Hardinge demanded that costs be reduced, he nevertheless wanted the house to retain a certain amount of ceremonial grandeur. (Note: our guide told us that the cost of the building was UK Pounds 839,000 which converted from 1929 to todays equivalent would be (as per the UK Office of National Statistics) UK Pounds 50,665,196 or at the present approximate ROE to the US dollar of $1.3 = UKP 1, would be US$ 65,864,755.
When Chakravarti Rajagopalachari assumed the office as the first Indian-born Governor General of India and became the occupant of this building he preferred to stay in a few rooms which is now the family wing of the President and converted the then Viceroy's apartments into the Guest Wing where visiting heads of state stay while in India.
On 26 ,864,755January 1950, when Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India and occupied this building, it was renamed as Rashtrapati Bhavan – the President's House.” Unquote
The guide noted that the banqueting hall held a dinner group of 200 but when President Barack Obama visited, the dinner party was for 1,000 people and had to be in a larger location. One of the quirks of the main banqueting hall is that the staff are consigned to absolute silence, instructions being conveyed to them during the meal by a series of colored lights blue, red and green, above the diners giving instructions when to serve and when to clear away dishes.
We also visited the artifacts room where there were wonderful carpets and tapestries on display.
We left the building and had a group photo taken at the foot of the steps.
 |
| ...and here we all are in front of the President's residence. |
 |
| The sweeping approach to the President's House |
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| Who is their florist....? |
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| The 'hall of fame' of past Presidents in the lobby |
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| Smart security |
 |
Marc, doing his best NOT to sit unnecessarily!!
|
Leaving the President’s house we traveled to a counter service restaurant called Haldirams where we lunched on Chole, Gol Gappe (large balloon-like crepes which we filled with various curries) and a type of small ‘donut’ soaked in syrup.
Then it was on to a shopping mall where most of the group went off to purchase scarves and stoles made of pashmina. After they had spent a while in the shop we headed back to the hotel.
As I had had a rather good lunch, I decided to skip dinner which would be at 8.30 p.m. at a bar where they served snack foods and exotic drinks. MAC went off with the group and I stayed to complete the day’s post and to prepare clothes for the trip to Agra tomorrow.
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